Address:
Av. Interoceanica S/N Barrio de Nueva Florida - Huaraz - Perú
Teléfono:
0051 043426857 / +51 943 601427

Climbing Urus – Ishinca – Tocllaraju – Chopicalqui – Alpamayo – Quitaraju – Artezonraju

Duration: 27 Days / 26 Nights




+ Program

  • Place: Cordillera Blanca
  • Route: Ishinca Valley – Chopicalqui – Alpamayo – Quitaraju – Artezonraju
  • Prefered time: May September
  • Start climbing: Huaraz – Ancash – Peru
  • Place to visit: Huascaran National Park

Peaks Maximum height Difficulty Length Ration client per guide
Urus 5495 m
18,023 feet
Not that hard
PD
27D/26N 3 to 1
Ishinca 5530 m
18,138 feet
Not that hard
PD
" " 3 to 1
Tocllaraju 6034 m
19,791 feet
Hard D " " 2 to 1
Chopicalqui 6354 m
20,841.12 feet
Fairly hard
(= AD+)
" " 2 to 1
Alpamayo – Quitaraju 5947 m 19,506,16 feet/
6036 m19,798.08 feet
Fairly hard (AD+)
Hard (= D)
" " 2 to 1
Artezonraju 6025 m
19,762 feet
Hard – D " " 2 to 1


Day 1: Huaraz – Pashpa Village – Ishinca Base Camp at (4350m)/14,268 feet.

We drive from Huaraz toward the north, as soon as we reach Puente mullaca we turn off to the right toward east driving on dirt road until Collon or Pashpa villages, where we will meet with or mountain crew as: donkey drivers and donkeys, while they load our climbing gear on donkeys back we walk up along ishinca valley through the quenual trees until base camp. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 2: Base Camp – Attempt Summit Urus at (5495m)/18,023 feet – Base Camp

First summit day; we normally leave early from base camp on steep path, which take us until the glacier edge, from it we rope up until reach the summit, when the sun is rising we enjoy taking the most marvelous pictures around us, then we retrace on the same route up until base camp. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 3: Base Camp – Attempt Summit Ishinca at (5530m)/18,138.4 feet – Base Camp

second summit day; We start early, beginning our walk in the dark on the clear way until lake Ishinca, from it we chose to climb on the west ridge or on the north ridge either are wonderful, on the glacier we climb upon snow and ice until the summit, on the top we will enjoy taking one of the most spectacular pictures, after that, we retrace on the same route up or traverse the summit, both options take to get at the base camp. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 4: Rest day at Ishinca Base Camp

This day we can spend all day resting at our campsite for recovering energy and shape after climbing two peaks enjoying the most astonishing views around us, the view is truly awesome with majestic beauty mountain views.

The second option is to make a short hike to Lake Tocllacocha close out camp site, where we will have the most breath-taking view surrounded by huge Andean peaks. Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 5: Base Camp – Moraine Camp of Tocllaraju (5000m)/16,400 feet.

This day we will move from base camp to moraine camp, the path is much significant steep until moraine camp at 5000 meters (16,400 feet), we generally climb up with porters support, who will load our group climbing gear until moraine campsite, such as: tents, stoves, foods and hardware. Overnight at moraine camp of tocllaraju

Day 6: Moraine Camp – Attempt Summit Tocllaraju at (6034m)/19,778 feet – Moraine Camp – Base Camp.

Summit day; we normally leave early, we will climb on the west face until reach the neck from it we follow climbing on the north ridge until the summit, the top is surrounded by several smaller peaks, and then we retrace on the same route up until moraine camp – base camp. Overnight ishinca base camp

Day 7: Ishinca Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz.

On our last day after our breakfast we walk down along ishinca valley until Pashpa village, where our private transportation awaits us to back to huaraz.

Day 8: Rest Day in – Huaraz – Hotel.

Chopicallqui Climbing; This impressive peak Chopicalqui is located between the Huascaran Sur and Huascaran north it is known a beautiful and amazing snow shelf, known as the “Mushroom”, it is ideal for a first experience of high altitude climbing in cordillera Blanca, although require physically demanding, and technical skills to climbing, it is surrounded by huge summits.

Day 9: Huaraz – Curve Chopicalqui – Moraine Camp (4900m)/16,072 feet.

We drive from Huaraz with our private transportation to the north of callejon de huaylas Valley passing on several towns until Yungay town, from it the road winds up toward the east on dirt road, after control of huascaran national park the road entrance in narrow llanganuco valley, where are located two beautiful lakes Chinancocha & Orconcocha with turquoise waters, we follow driving until chopicallqui big switchback, from where we are going to load up our gear and prepare for the walk up to Moraine Camp With porter support. Overnight at moraine camp

Day 10: Moraine Camp – High Camp (5300m)/17,384 feet.

On this day we climb up on the loose rocky until the beginning of glacier as soon as we reach the glacier, then we rope up and follow climbing up by easy steep slopes until reach the high camp on the southwest ridge. Overnight at high camp

Day 11: High Camp – Intent Summit Chopicalqui (6354 m)/20,841 feet – Moraine Camp

Summit day, this day we will start climbing up very early on steep slopes, there are some sections, where we need to use two ice axes to climbing. From the summit we will be able to take the most magnificent pictures around us, and then we retrace on the same route until high camp – moraine camp or base camp. Last night camp at moraine or base camp.

Day 12: Moraine Camp – Base Camp – Chopicalqui Curve – Huaraz

On this day we walk down until big chopicallqui curve, where our private transportation is waiting us to back Huaraz.

Day 13: Rest Day in Huaraz – Hotel.

Climbing Huascaran; Huascaran is the 4th highest peak in the Western Hemisphere and the highest peak in Peru. Just only accessible, for climbers, who has a high fitness, good acclimatization, and considerable climbing skills on snow and ice with significant experience walking with crampons

Day 14: Huaraz – Cashapampa at (2900m) – Llama coral 3760 (m)/12,332 feet.

We drive from Huaraz to end of the range to the town of Cashapampa with our private transportation into Callejón de Huaylas valley until arrive cashapampa village, where we will meet with our mountain crew as donkey drivers and donkeys; from this village our mountaineering equipment’s are loading on donkeys, we set out carrying only light day packs. We enter the valley of the Rio Santa Cruz, narrow at its entrance but widening as we climb further into the range.in the afternoon we arrive at our first camp. Overnight camp at llamacoral

Day 15: Llama Coral – Base Camp Alpamayo at (4330m)/14,202 feet.

On our second day of trekking we walk up along quebrada Santa Cruz until quisuar then we follow walking up on several switchbacks until reach the alpamayo view point, after several pictures we follow walking along arhueycocha gorge until Base Camp, where a lovely place is nestled in among Queñual trees next to a small stream. Overnight at alpamayo base camp

Day 16: Base Camp – Moraine Camp at (4900m)/16,072 feet.

On This day we move to moraine camp, which is situated just below the glacier on polished slabs of granite rock; we usually walk up the steep path with support of porters, who will load our group climbing gear. Overnight at moraine camp

Day 17: Moraine Camp – Alpamayo High Camp I at (5200m)/17,056 feet.

On this day we Move from moraine camp to high camp over the glacier with porters support again, it can be a big day; from begin of the glacier we climb up on rope up, until get to the ice wall, which is just before arriving the cool, we need to pass an ice wall of 60 meters long with pitch of 55º of solid snow or sometimes hard ice that ice wall is 50 – 60 digress, where is necessary to use a technique ice axe, after that we arrive to the cool and we move to the high camp plateau. Overnight at alpamayo high camp

Day 18: Camp I – Attempt Summit Alpamayo (5947m)/ 19,506 feet – Camp I.

Summit day: Rising early, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the Southwest Face, where start the huge ice wall flouted, after climbing for many hours we reach the top to enjoy one of the most spectacular views about many snowcapped peaks around it. We usually Descent same route on rappels until High Camp. Overnight at alpamayo high camp

Day 19: Rest Day at High Camp.

Rest day on the high camp to recovering lost energy after climbing alpamayo. Overnight at high camp alpamayo

Day 20: Camp I – Intent Summit Quitaraju (6036m)/19,942 feet – Camp I – Base Camp.

Summit day, Rising early, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base of the northeast Face, where we will start climbing as alpine stile the huge ice wall, After many hours climbing, we reach at the top to enjoy taking pictures about impressive and astonishing view. We usually Descent same route until High Camp, then we retrace to base camp, for a nice dinner. Overnight at high camp alpamayo

Day 21: Base Camp – Llamacoral

On this day after climbing couple peaks we hiking down along the santa cruz valley until reach llamacoral camping spot. Overnight at llamacoral

Day 22: Llamacoral – Cashapampa – Huaraz

Return to huaraz we walk down on the Santa Cruz valley until cashapampa village, where our private transportation awaits us to back to Huaraz.

Day 23: Rest Day in Huaraz – Hotel

Climbing Artezonraju: Only For experienced climbers, excellent shape condition is necessary; the normal climbing route on the south face and north ridge on Santa Cruz valley, but this elegant pyramid shape has become famous, which is figuring in logo of Paramount Studios. During its climbing, we will admire plunging views on Santa Cruz Valley and as a backdrop, the famous Pirámide de Garcilaso, Pisco, Chacraraju, Huandoy and the twins’ peaks of Huascaran. The glacier has several steep steps, alternating with more moderate ground. The climb finishes with about 200 meters of steeper snow and ice before reaching the upper ridge.

Day 24: Huaraz – Lake Paron – Moraine Camp (4900m)/16,072 feet.

We drive from Huaraz to reach of Caráz town. From Caráz we turn east, into the mountains on dirt road until Lake Parón, where we will load our group climbing gear with porters, after two hour hike up we arrive to Base Camp, normally located at 4200 meters (13,800 feet) then we move to moraine camp. Overnight at Moraine camp

Day 25: Moraine Camp – High Camp (5000m)/16,400 feet.

This day we ascent up toward to high camp on the glacier traversing the main glacial until reach the glacier plateau, which is located at foot of huge South Face wall. Overnight at high camp

Day 26: High Camp – Attempt Summit Artezonraju (6025 m)/19,767 feet – High Camp

Summit day: As usual we have breakfast early, after it we leave from the high camp toward the bergschrund at the base of the South Face, this incredible face is climbed in a long day on steep ice climbing, the snow wall is about 700 meters long, and it usually has firms’ snow with a few sections of ice. Generally there are snow pickets and anchors fixed to climbing up and rappelling to descend on the snow wall. Overnight at high camp

Day 27: High Camp – Base Camp – Lake Paron – Huaraz

This day we Descent on the rocky path until Base Camp, from it we follow walking until parking side at Paron Lake, where our private transportation awaits to back to Huaraz.

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DANIEL MILLA LLIUYA
Certified Mountain Guide
UIAGM - AGMP
Tour operador en Perú
Address
Av. Interoceanica S/N Barrio de Nueva Florida - Huaraz - Ancash - Perú



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